Andrew McLaren's web page.

This page contains links to documents useful for project students.

Strathclyde University Homepage

Department of Mechanical & Aerospace Engineering Homepage

2012-13 Technical Papers for Download

Joey Bett: "Analysis of Rock Climbing Falls with Different Rope Paths"

Elaine Reid: "The Effects of Different Types of Damage on the Strength and Extensibility of Climbing Ropes"

Heather McLaren: "An Assessment of the Strength of Splices in Sailing Ropes"

David Smith: "The Strength of Climbing Ropes Loaded over Edges of Varying Radii"

Steven Welsh: "The Effect of Damage on the Strength of Climbing Carabiners"

2007-08 Technical Papers for Download

Alasdair Brown: "Strength of Knots in Dynamic Climbing Ropes."

Natalie Jackson: "Dynamic Testing of Climbing Karabiners."

Douglas Young: "An Assessment of the Strength of Seizings and Whippings used to Create Eye Terminations on Sailing Rope."

2006-07 Technical Papers for Download

Stuart Douglas: "The Effect of Water Immersion on the Properties of Climbing Ropes."

Nathan Garratt: "Dynamic Testing of Climbing Karabiners."

William Diamond: "Assessment of the Strength of Rope Splices and Knots in Sailing Ropes."

Ruairidh Cameron-White: "Physical Simulation of the Forces Generated by a Sailing Winch."

2005-06 Technical Papers for download.

Douglas Harvey: "Analysis of Ice Axes under Loading."

Karen Andrew: "An Assessment of the Effect of Water Absorption on the Mechanical Properties of Dynamic Climbing Ropes."

Murray Walker: "Investigation into the Effect of the Rope Structure and Materials on the Performance of a Sailing Winch."

Mark McKay: "Assessment of the Strength of Rope Splices and Knots in a Sailing Environment."

A.J. McLaren, "Design and Performance of Ropes for Climbing and Sailing". Journal of Materials: Design and Applications, Proc. IMechE, Part L. 220 , (2006), 1-12.

K.A. Milne and A.J. McLaren, An Assessment of the Strength of Knots and Splices used as Eye Terminations in a Sailing Environment, Sports Engineering , 9 , (2006), 1-14.

2004-05 Technical Papers for download.

Daniel Wessel: "Failure Modes of Climbing Karabiners"

Matthew Smith: "An Assessment of the Effects of Environmental Conditions on the Performance of Dynamic Climbing Ropes"

Alasdair Fulton: "Investigation into the Effect of Rope to Rope Contact for a Winch in a Multi-Turn Configuration"

2003-04 Technical Papers for download.

Katherine Milne: "An Assessment of the Strength of Knots and Splices used as Eye Terminations in a Sailing Environment"

Patrick Campbell: "Design and Construction of a Sailing Winch Simulator"

Steven McGuinnity: "What Determines the Strength of Climbing Karabiners?"


Assorted Web Resources (in no particular order)

Bill Hawkswell: "An Investigation into Climbing Rope Failures or Why I Became an Arm-Chair Mountaineer ", Cambridge Underground 1984 pp 28-32

R.A. Smith, "The Development of Equipment to Reduce Risk in Rock Climbing", Sports Engineering , 1998, 1 , 27-39.

M.J. Pavier. "Experimental and Theoretical Simulations of Climbing Falls", Sports Engineering , 1998, 1 , 79-91.

Pit Schubert: "Our ropes are much stronger than we believe", UIAA Safety Commission.

The Alpine Club of Canada: Various articles about rope and climbing equipment safety.

The BMC: British Mountaineering Council Technical Reports online. Summit Magazine back issues.

Turin Rope Conference 2002

San Diego Conference (Materials and Science in Sports) 2001

Leeds Climbing conference 1999

"Learning the Ropes" Review of modern climbing ropes, Frank Bennett, BMC Summit Magazine.

"Ropes Don't Break" Short article by Marcus Bailee, BMC Summit Magazine.

"Standard Practice" Climbing equipmant standards explained, BMC Summit Magazine.

British Standard for testing of climbing ropes. BS 892 1997.

"Splicing Modern Ropes": Article from Yachts and Yachting, 17 January 2003.

"Rope Yarns" : Article from Yachts and Yachting, 11 February 2005.